Author Archives: Lorna

My kind of dress…Tilly and the Button’s Bettine.

After nearly a year since I sewed anything jersey, the onset of Autumn really brought a sense of a need to sew with jersey again! My 2 previous stretch projects were from Tilly and the Button’s Coco pattern - 1 top and 1 dress; both of which I love. The release of Tilly & the Button’s Agnes pattern lead me to seek out some jersey fabric to create some wardrobe staples for the Autumn/winter. Then I saw the Bettine dress which literally leap frogged all plans, I knew this was my kind of dress! The fabric I used for this project was originally intended for a Sewaholic Davie dress. This however I saw as more of a Spring/summer dress so had missed the boat with that one and will wait until next year to tackle.

The Bettine dress however appealed to me as I thought it would lend itself to wearing a thin jersey top underneath and I do love layering! It reminded me of a RTW dress/top that I have from the high st which I have had for years and wear loads either on its own with leggings or with a top underneath and tights. So all in all I couldn’t wait to try this pattern. I had read some reviews from other sewists who had said it was a relatively straight forward garment to make too - this added further to its appeal!!

The original pattern suggests using light to medium weight drapey fabrics e.g. Viscose, cotton voile, lawn or chambray. No mention of jersey. However, Tilly wrote a blog post on ‘Tips for making a Jersey Bettine dress ‘ and talked about it being a relaxed fit dress….SOLD!! … I decided to launch in and go straight for the jersey version.

The fabric I chose to use is a light to medium weight jersey from Guthrie and Ghani (another T&B/G&G combo for me - this is becoming a habit!). I found cutting it out really tricky, it kept slipping all over the place! I used my regular fabric scissors but whilst using them I was thinking a rotary blade and mat would be much more suitable. I see a letter to Father Christmas coming on! Tilly has a useful blog post on cutting knit fabrics here. Whilst we are on the topic of useful blog posts, Tilly has also written one on sewing with knits on a regular sewing machine here. Man I love her blog!! One clever lady.

Before I go into the details, here it is….

 

The long sleeve white top underneath is just a RTW jersey top which allows the dress to be worn at this time of year. A cardi would work equally as well but I wear a lot of outfits like this so here is my style!

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Tilly and the button’s Megan dress - bring on the toile

I finished this make back in the summer but life has been a bit busy over the last couple of months so this blog post has been a little while in the making! If it’s left a while it then becomes harder to remember all of the details! Well let’s see what I can do, here goes….

The Megan dress is one of 2 dresses in the fantastic book ‘Love at First Stitch’ by Tilly Walnes (of Tilly and the Buttons). I have also used this book to make Tilly’s Delphine skirt, Brigette scarf and Clemence skirt. Despite the Megan dress having been on my wish list for a while, I wasn’t 100% convinced the style was right for me for my usual day to day needs. I thought the style might be a bit formal for me. In fact the fabric I used was originally going to be for a Ruby dress from Love Sewing magazine. However the Megan kept calling me and I had seen so many cute versions on other sewing blogs that I couldn’t resist. Bring on the Megan!

Having now made several garments for myself, on reflection I have been lucky on the whole in that I didn’t need to make major alterations from the shop pattern in order to achieve a good fit. I have however been a bit disappointed with the final fit of a couple, particularly around the back of the neck area. Alongside this I recently became a happy owner of a dressform to help with fitting. There was nothing else for it..it was time to make a toile.

A toile is basically an initial test version of a garment, traditionally made in a cheaper plain fabric or calico. You can also make a ‘wearable toile’ by choosing a fabric that might be a little cheaper or that you are not too precious about if it doesn’t go to plan. If it turns out ok though, you have something wearable at the end. Bonus! In fact you can use anything you like really, even an old bed sheet but the important thing is to use a fabric that is very similar to your ‘final’ fabric. You can make all your fitting alterations to the toile first. When you are happy with that version you can transfer any changes to the pattern pieces and then it’s time to cut into your final fabric. Making the toile first may seem to make the whole process longer. However, if you end up with a fabulously fitting piece of clothing at the end rather than something that you’re just not happy with, who could argue with that extra time spent?!

I have previously been too impatient to do a test version and preferred to get stuck in straight away. However, I am sure the realisation comes to most sewers at some point, as it did with me, that alterations are far easier to do at the beginning rather than at the end when things like facings, seams, bias binding and linings get in the way. It’s all in the planning!

In order to help me along the way I used a few resources to load myself with knowledge! A post on Karen’s ‘Did you make that?’ blog gives some nice pictures on transferring adjustments onto the pattern piece. In addition to a useful section in Tilly’s book, there is also a very comprehensive blog post on a guide to making a toile on the Tilly and the Buttons blog, here. I also found a useful post on accurate fitting by Lorna Knight on the Sewing Directory website.

My Toile

Having done my background reading on making a toile I set to work by taking my measurements and comparing them to the pattern. My measurements were 34″ bust (size 3), 30″ waist (size 4) and 34″hips (size 1-2). I decided to go for a size 3 first of all as I usually end up taking things in at the waist and made a note that I might need to take some off the side seams at the hips.

I decided to toile the main pieces of the garment - the bodice, skirt and one of the sleeves. The guidance I had read suggested to adjust the length first, then the circumference and then any further personal adjustments e.g. sway back.

I usually have to lengthen patterns due to being approx 5’9 ish. I had a feeling that I would probably need to add some length to the bodice aswell as the skirt. This was therefore a really useful step of the toile in order to get the proportions right. I cut out the bodice and skirt pieces, sewed the darts and dart tucks in place and then sewed the bodice and skirt together. As I thought, when I tried it on I could see that the waist seam needed to be lowered and the skirt also needed to be lengthened. The bodice pattern piece had a handy lengthen/shorten line on it so I slashed the bodice open along this line and inserted 4cm in. With the skirt I added 2cm onto the bottom.

Lengthening the bodice by 4cm

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The Simplicity Blog meet up with star guest May Martin

Last week I had the amazing opportunity to attend the first Simplicity bloggers meet up held in London at the Good Housekeeping Institute Dining Room.

 

Having seen the event advertised on Twitter, I jumped at the chance to meet May Martin, the highly experienced textile tutor and judge on the BBC series The Great British Sewing Bee and pick up some top sewing tips. It was also really lovely to put some ‘real’ faces to a few bloggers I had seen or read about and indulge in some sewing chat! How amazing to be in the same room with lots of like minded people all talking about sewing! Sewing geekiness galore!

The meet up was put into full swing by May Martin presenting several of her favourite Simplicity patterns including one from Simplicity’s ‘Amazing Fit’ range. The pattern includes separate pattern pieces for different cup sizes which sounded very intriguing and saves you needing to do any bust adjustments. May then held an interactive ‘master class’ workshop throughout which she shared some top sewing tips and tricks. These included semi concealed and invisible zip insertion, transferring pattern markings, the roles of different sewing machine feet and sewing curved seams. I would estimate that there was only about 50 people in the room and this combined with close up views presented on 2 big screens and May’s fantastic instructions and explanations meant that you could really understand and follow the processes being taught. Samples that May had sewn were also handed round the guests which helped to visualise the techniques demonstrated.

 

Using your hands to help shape a curved seam when pinning

Using tape to mark sewing line when inserting a semi concealed zip

My absolute favourite top tip from May was related to invisible zip insertion. When finishing off the seam below the invisible zip, May recommends using an adjustable zipper foot so that you can get as close as possible to the seam line. This is the part when you have to move the bottom part of the zip out of the way and continue the line of stitching in order to finish the seam off. With a standard foot (that I have used until now) it is really tricky to get close enough. Can’t wait to try this one!

After the workshop there was time to browse over a selection of free patterns and were given our goody bags. What a generous offering - I have never seen a goody bag like it!! Just check this selection out (there was more!)….

There was also time to grab a picture with May!

It was such a privilege to be able to hear May speak about her sewing career. She was incredibly down to earth and so passionate about sewing and her role as a sewing tutor. I was very inspired and imagine that most people in the room felt exactly the same.

It really was a fantastic couple of hours and I met some lovely people so thank you to Simplicity for organising. Lots to reflect on and techniques to put into practice! Bring it on!

1930’s Great British Sewing Bee Vintage blouse

As I wait for the opportunity to take some photos of a recent make I thought I would look back as this vintage blouse I made in November last year.

It is the 1930s blouse from the second Great British Sewing Bee book, ‘Sew your own wardrobe’. I loved the look of this blouse when I saw it in the book and was just waiting for the right fabric to come along. I chose this orange blossom cotton lawn from Guthrie and Ghani. Given the length of time since I bought it, it is not unsurprising that it has sold out there now. I did happen to see it in John Lewis too a few months back. It is more light weight than the quilting weight cottons that I have tended to sew with mostly and has a lovely soft drape for a gathered blouse such as this one.

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Simplicity Blogger Challenge - The results!

If you follow my blog you may well have read about my recent entry to this year’s Simplicity Star Sewist competition. If you know me quite well then you will have definitely heard about it - more than once!! If not, the initial background to the competition and preview of my make can be seen here and more details including pictures of my entry is here.

My entry

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The results were announced by Simplicity via twitter on July 1st. There were 3 winners in total, one for each of the 3 categories (Best Vintage Make, Best Dressmaker and Best Newcomer). When I saw Scruffy Badger’s name as the winner of my category (Best dressmaking category) I was not at all surprised…her entry was awesome! - very inspiring and a truly beautiful outfit - quite unrecognisable from the original pattern. Some amazing pattern alteration skills and use of fabric demonstrated (in my opinion!!). Aswell as including the winner’s names the tweet also included a link to the Simplicity blog page where further details about the results were included. So I clicked on the link to read more. There were the pictures of the 3 winning entries. I read more. Then there was this intriguing paragraph:

“Having reviewed each entry, the celebrity judging panel were hard pushed to whittle down the makes to one winner for each category. So, we created a ‘highly commended’ spot for bloggers that just missed out on the coveted top spot, but produced a project that both the judges and Simplicity recognised as a great make.”

I read on…no pictures this time but a quick scan of the 2 highly commended entries in the Best Dressmaker category and I saw a link to MY BLOG!!! I was one of the 2 highly commended entries. I had to look a couple of times over but yes it really was mine. I was so happy! Whoopee!

So I am now able to proudly display this badge on my blog - Cool or what?!!!

I am really chuffed about this, having only been sewing things for myself for about 18 months. A real confidence boost and motivator to strive to keep learning and developing my skills. I also really enjoyed looking at all of the other entries; how one pattern can be interpreted and made in such different ways but all starting off from a common point. That really is the beauty of making your own clothes -the possibilities are endless.

That wasn’t the only positive outcome from the challenge though for me. It was also quite a technological advancement on my part - seeing the competition advertised was a driving force for me starting my blog in the first place as you had to have a blog to take part. Through this process I have also learnt loads! I am also now on twitter as this was one of the routes through which you could submit your entry. I am enjoying developing new links through this and discovering many new parts of the sewing community that I never knew existed - a whole new world indeed!!

So if you see a similar competition or opportunity advertised I would say go for it!!

Well until next time

Happy Sewing!

Lorna x

A little bit of vintage - Simplicity 1692

I want to share with you a vintage blouse I made back in February this year. The project was started on a dressmaking workshop I attended at John Lewis in Bristol called Dressmaking to fit. It was a Rowan workshop run by Avril Best. As the name suggested the workshop was predominantly all about how to achieve a good fit with your garments, not so much on the actual sewing. There were a few patterns selected as project suggestions. The pattern I chose to do was Simplicity 1692 and view A, the long sleeved blouse. I wanted something that I hadn’t made before and would challenge me, whilst still working on achieving the best fit.

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Included in the cost of the workshop was any of the Rowan fabrics in store to make your garment from. Well hello…..! Talk about being in a sweet shop! I love Rowan fabric and could have chosen any of the entire range! Took me ages to decide!

I plumped for one from the Glow collection called Quarter Moon Mist designed by Amy Butler.

Before I go into the nitty gritty here it is…

 

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I have to admit I think it would look really nice tucked into some high waisted trousers or a pencil skirt. However both of those I am lacking so RTW (Ready-to-wear) jeans it is!!

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A quick make for summer - The GBSB Sleeveless shell top

In order to boost my selection of summer tops, I have made the Sleeveless shell top from the most recent Great British Sewing Bee book - ‘Fashion with fabric’ by Claire-Louise Hardie.

I was after a fairly straight forward project that I could fit in amongst a couple of other things I had on the go at the time And this fitted the bill perfectly.

An extract of the pattern has also recently been featured in a special 2 part Sewing Bee supplement in the Daily Telegraph and also the June 2015 issue of Sew Home & Style, so plenty of opportunities to get your hands on this lovely pattern.

The top reminds me of the sleeveless top the contestants in Series 2 had to make in the first episode (I think!) which Heather nailed impressively (again from memory!). I remember the part where they had to turn the facing through by sliding the back pieces through to the right side, and how they were helping each other out when in a pickle, which was very sweet. One difference here is that there is an option on this pattern to make the back piece longer which is a nice feature especially if a little coverage of the ‘derrière’ is needed!

The fabric I used was a cotton from John Lewis which I bought it with a pretty summer top in mind. I love the repeating pattern against the fresh white/cream background. It is from a Free Spirit collection called Riddles and Rhymes.

Here it is in the first outside shot of my blog!!…

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Simplicity star sewist blogger competition - new look 6145

As the clock ticks closer to the deadline of the competition, I present my entry to the ‘Simplicity Star Sewist’ competition. Nothing like last minute hey?! Details of the competition can be found here. When I first saw the competition advertised a few months ago I saw that it is only open to bloggers. At that point I didn’t have a blog so although I had thought about starting a blog at some point, it was definitely a big incentive I needed and gave me a push in the right direction to start mine!

There are 3 categories to enter in, each having its own pattern for you to make your own version of. I decided to enter the ‘Best dressmaking project’ category which involves making a garment from the New Look 6145 shift dress pattern.

Fabric

In my previous blog post, (here) I gave a sneak preview of my chosen pattern and fabric.

I received the floral cotton as part of a subscription offer to ‘Sew style and home’ magazine. Although I do really like the fabric it wouldn’t have been one that I would naturally have been drawn to for this dress - I would have gone for a bolder print. I did however have 2m of it and thought that was quite cool using it for this project.

In order to add some contrast I decided to use some plain grey cotton for the sleeves, collar and belt. This was from Hobbycraft.

So before I go into the details here it is…

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Simplicity blogger competition

I love seeing what other sewers have on their sewing table and being allowed a sneak preview into ‘work in progress’ shots, not just the finished articles. I therefore thought I would quickly share what my next make will be - a kind of before and after perspective!

I am planning on entering the Simplicity star sewist competition, details of which can be found here. The closing date is the end of May so I really need to get my skates on! When I first saw the competition advertised a few months ago I saw that it is only open to bloggers. At that point I didn’t have a blog so although I had thought about starting a blog at some point, it was definitely a big incentive I needed and gave me a push in the right direction to start mine! So now I have my lovely blog I can enter!!

There are 3 categories to enter in, each having its own pattern for you to make your own version of. I have decided to enter the ‘Best dressmaking project’ category which involves making a garment from the New Look 6145 shift dress pattern.

I haven’t quite finalised which version of the pattern I am going to do but I have my fabric, it’s been washed and have a couple of ideas to get going.

This is what I am working with…..

 

2m floral fabric

1m grey fabric

22″ invisible zip

New Look 6145 pattern

It has been one of my plans to make a toile for my next make (test version of the garment in cheaper fabric or muslin, that you can make adjustments to and improve the fit before you cut into your final fabric). I have recently had a couple of fitting issues particularly across the back of the neck/shoulders area. Unfortunately time is of the essence with this one so am going to try and do a ’tissue fit’ first and accurately measure myself against the pattern in this area. If I need to do some adjustments I will aim to do these before the finishing stage! Fingers crossed.

So anyway, less chatting, more sewing…here goes….!!

Until next time

 

Happy sewing!

 

Lorna x